Diamond Dermabrasion is a “Girl’s Best Friend”

Patricia Wong, M.D

In the October 2009 issue of the prestigious Journal Archives of Dermatology, investigators at the University of Michigan compared different microdermabrasion systems and found that only the large diamond-studded microdermabrasion hand piece increased collagen in the dermis and improved photoaging changes.

Forty adults (men and women) ranging in age from 50-83 years with sun-damaged skin, had one forearm treated with diamond microdermabrasion and the other forearm with crystal microdermabrasion. Serial biopsies were taken before and after treatments. The samples were studied with special enzyme assays and tissue markers to assess cellular reaction and collagen production. The reaction in the dermal layer of the skin was similar to the response seen in wound healing where there is an increased production of type 1 and type 2 procollagen and an increase in the collagen production enhancer's heat shock protein 47 and prolyl 4-hydroxylase. In plain English, this translates as an increase in cellular secretion of specific proteins that enhance collagen production and increase synthesis of the extracellular matrix, which provides support, elasticity, and structure to the skin.

Microdermabrasion treatments using crystals showed absolutely no evidence of dermal remodeling of the skin when tissue samples were studied. Photodamaged skin is composed of fractured collagen fibers in the dermis. This results in thinner skin, easy bruising, and increased wrinkling and sagging of the skin. This is because fibroblast cells are producing less collagen and more metalloproteinases These enzymes degrade collagen. Ultraviolet radiation from the sun increases the activity of these enzymes.

Crystal microdermabrasion machines are commonly used in spas but do not afford the anti-aging benefits achieved with diamond dermabrasion. Diamond dermabrasion used in combination with topical collagen production boosters and antioxidants (to protect collagen from degradation) is an effective strategy for regaining the firmness and tightness of your skin. Multiple treatments performed every 2-3 weeks are recommended to see the best results. There is minimal morbidity and downtime associated with the treatments.

Dr. Wong has been providing diamond dermabrasion for her patients as one of the first line treatments for improving a number of conditions characteristic of aging skin. She has also observed excellent results for clearing acne, rosacea, and smoothing acne scars. The treatment deep cleans the skin allowing topical medications to be absorbed more effectively. This is a nice adjuvant therapy to combine with bleaching, anti-aging, and acne regimens.